tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88895197249474918852024-02-06T21:53:54.146-08:00A RepRap Breeding ProgramThis is a log of all my RepRap related activities.Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.comBlogger53125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-84225588087072636802011-09-22T21:59:00.000-07:002011-09-22T22:36:03.259-07:00The InkShield<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/6104681703/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="DSCN7348 by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="DSCN7348" height="300" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6071/6104681703_ae907a0e61_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>I first introduced this shield in July at a <a href="http://dorkbotsea.org/events/dorkbot-seattle-0x46-bikes-and-inkjets">Dorkbot Seattle meeting</a> and have since made several revisions which I showed at Ignite Seattle/ ThingOut.<br />
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I have a <a href="http://kck.st/oAGeza">Kickstarter project</a> to gather backing to launch this product. That Kickstarter is now more than 200% funded with around 100 kits pre-sold and 8 days left. I think these shields will lead to many interesting projects.<br />
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The shield should also support being connected to most RepRap boards as it only needs 5 pins (ideally with 4 on a single port). I am still trying to wrap my mind around the best way to send print commands via g-codes. The biggest challenge I see is that g-code is vector data and inkjet data is raster data. I still think there are some interesting 3D applications including possible 3D powder printing.<br />
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<blockquote>This shield allows you to connect a HP C6602 inkjet cartridge to your Arduino turning it into a 96dpi print platform. It only uses 5 pins which can be jumper selected to avoid other shields. It is designed with a Arduino Mega footprint but fully supports both the Arduino and the Arduino Mega. It is designed with all through-hole components to make assembly easy even for beginners.<br />
All source code (both hardware and software) will be fully Open Source and released when the initial production run is completed.</blockquote>Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-15820551072933401862011-08-13T23:36:00.000-07:002011-08-13T23:36:23.299-07:00Continued IPR developmentsI have reprinted most of the parts of my prototype for various reasons. Some of them were just weak from poor print quality (My printer was acting up a few months ago when I printed most of them), others needed minor changes.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/6040232071/" title="DSCN7141 by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="DSCN7141" height="240" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6210/6040232071_891a6a9f89_z.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
The original part is the grey one above and the new one is the white one below. I added a extra pulley to help the belt path.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/6040782794/" title="DSCN7145 by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="DSCN7145" height="240" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6073/6040782794_97b2ae0823_z.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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I ordered 0.2mm pitch belt and pulleys, which are very nice.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/6040231807/" title="DSCN7135 by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="DSCN7135" height="300" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6208/6040231807_538fea2ff3_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/6040231901/" title="DSCN7138 by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="DSCN7138" height="300" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6066/6040231901_e8bdbfb494_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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I have also finished assembling a Sanguinololu set and mounted that to my plywood side.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/6040783774/" title="Sanguinololu testing by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Sanguinololu testing" height="300" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6136/6040783774_6b1d496dde_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/6040784170/" title="Sanguinololu mounted by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Sanguinololu mounted" height="400" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6143/6040784170_b2bb9012dc_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
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I designed a smaller version of the<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:762"> Makerbot mechanical endstop</a> which I plan to upload soon as well. My version is designed to support 3 or 4 wire connections. The boards were fabricated by the <a href="http://dorkbotpdx.org/wiki/pcb_order">DorkbotPDX PCB service</a> which makes very high quality purple PCBs.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/6040233061/" title="Endstops by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Endstops" height="300" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6136/6040233061_b833249b5d_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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I have some connectors and wire on order to finish wiring up my motors and should have a video of it moving by next weekend. The next steps will be to finalize my extruder and hotend plans and then it should be printing.<br />
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Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-9026408398731142662011-07-17T23:06:00.000-07:002011-07-17T23:06:06.921-07:00Integrated Parametric RepRap developmentsI finally have had time to start working on my <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Integrated_Parametric_RepRap">IPR project</a> again. I have a set of prototype parts printed out and have cut plywood sides and rods.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5949057317/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IPR main frame by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="IPR main frame" height="400" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6011/5949057317_67210f1621.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br />
Although I already have several things I want to change I plan to assemble it as much as possible before making any changes. I expect to assemble it a few times before working out all the bugs. So far I like how it is coming together and think this is a good compromise between a Sell's Mendel and a Prusa Mendel (Although it has much more in common with the Sell's).<br />
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I bought some T-Rex 500 R/C helicopter gears that I was thinking of using for a new extruder design but I think the main gear may be larger than I want. I have some R/C car gears on the way that should be closer to the size of the stock Wade's gears (they may even work on a stock body).<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5949060983/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="T-Rex 500 gears with Wade's gears by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="T-Rex 500 gears with Wade's gears" height="300" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6004/5949060983_ffa0bd292b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>There are more pictures on <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/sets/72157627220895658/with/5949057317/">Flicker</a><br />
Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-61940891819894995322011-07-07T21:46:00.000-07:002011-07-07T21:46:11.207-07:00A very big 3D printer<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/metrixcreate/5913532412/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="Extruder Drive by metrixcreate, on Flickr"><img alt="Extruder Drive" height="500" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6048/5913532412_a9149e7352.jpg" width="334" /></a></div>My friends at Metrix Create: Space have just completed the first major step in yet another <a href="http://metrixcreatespace.com/post/7358646850/big-robot-lives">very cool project</a>. They have converted an old CNC router table into a FDM 3D printer.<br />
They are using a industrial shredder to convert old milk jugs into HDPE chips. They are then fed into a hopper and a drill and auger bit push them into a custom extruder heater body.<br />
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While most RepRap sized printers use a 0.5mm nozzle this printer is using a 6mm nozzle. This size is needed to have reasonable print speeds. They initially plan to print a boat (for a milk carton derby?) and are looking for feedback on what they should print next.<br />
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I think 3D scans of people printed life size could be very cool. Maybe <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9010">this </a>would be an interesting thing to print...Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-11311795001598182622011-05-17T17:47:00.000-07:002011-05-17T17:47:46.590-07:00DIY Inkjet Printer<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5725268080/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="Close-up of carriage by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Close-up of carriage" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5301/5725268080_c0fbfbce99.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
This quarter at the UW we produced some documentation on the development of a DIY inkjet printer. This was partly in response to the fact that there are no DIY inkjet kits available. There was a <a href="http://www.parallax.com/dl/docs/prod/robo/InkjetKitDocs-v1.0.pdf%20">kit available</a> from Parallax however it is no longer made and the main <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Inkjet-Applications-Matt-Gilliland/dp/0972015930">book</a> that was written to go with it is now out of print.<br />
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<blockquote>The goal of this project was to develop a low cost, open source inkjet printer utilizing standard inkjet technology, for personal use. This project was partly in response to the fact that there are no DIY inkjet kits available. There was a kit available from Parallax <a href="http://www.parallax.com/dl/docs/prod/robo/InkjetKitDocs-v1.0.pdf" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">parallax.com/dl/docs/prod/robo/InkjetKitDocs-v1.0.pdf</a>. This kit is no longer made and the book <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Inkjet-Applications-Matt-Gilliland/dp/0972015930" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">amazon.com/Inkjet-Applications-Matt-Gilliland/dp/0972015930</a> that was written to use that kit is now out of print.<br />
The prototype design used a carriage assembly constructed from steel rods that were assembled using connectors that can be printed on an FDM machine. The entire carriage system is driven along the x-axis by a belt attached to a stepper motor. The print cartridge, taken from an HP point of sale printer, is driven along the y-axis by another stepper motor belt drive. The electronic controls use an Arduino Mega to run all of the printing systems.<br />
The design resulted in a working prototype that fulfills all of the design constraints. The rod frame carriage design is lightweight, easy to assemble and easy to integrate with the other systems. The Arduino used in the electronics has a large library of resources available to perform things like LCD, SD card, and stepper control.<br />
Areas where future work should be focused include making molds and casting printable parts to bring down the overall cost, developing host side software, and optimizing the speed. </blockquote><br />
The documentation is being released as a <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8542">thing </a>on Thingiverse, a <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/sets/72157626730985822/">photo album</a> and a <a href="http://youtu.be/fYeYeTGkvJM">video</a>.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/fYeYeTGkvJM" width="425"></iframe>Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-13560090253600591352011-04-19T22:01:00.000-07:002011-04-19T22:01:20.105-07:00Which came first, the chicken or the egg?At least for me it was the Egg first:<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5637001134/" title="Pink Egg by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Pink Egg" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5268/5637001134_f1c5039bdc.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />
<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7832">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7832</a><br />
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Then the Chick:<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5636973156/" title="Chicks inspired by marshmallow candy by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Chicks inspired by marshmallow candy" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5185/5636973156_e2e6a71303.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />
<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7913">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7913</a><br />
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Then the Chick In Egg:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLHYNS0B3Na1ZehT2yZmiRcAK7CyN7udC7mhjdzryIsDnmPXCYvDY7qYqadAfyt-_CC222tc4GRVruUuhosWws_R6j8D2G99bLP5gSLGWd5vbR_hsLuQJiV0K4Zsxuvc04FCXODkUWxWR5/s1600/ChickInEggSnap00.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLHYNS0B3Na1ZehT2yZmiRcAK7CyN7udC7mhjdzryIsDnmPXCYvDY7qYqadAfyt-_CC222tc4GRVruUuhosWws_R6j8D2G99bLP5gSLGWd5vbR_hsLuQJiV0K4Zsxuvc04FCXODkUWxWR5/s320/ChickInEggSnap00.png" width="277" /></a></div><a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7915">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7915</a>Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-39372075580441394412011-04-06T20:57:00.001-07:002011-04-06T20:57:53.204-07:00The McCormick Code - help the FBIThe FBI currently is asking the public for help in deciphering these paper that were found on Ricky McCormick's dead body in 1999. I first read about this on <a href="http://www.physorg.com/news/2011-04-fbi-code.html">PhysOrg</a> and then read the FBI's <a href="http://www.fbi.gov/news/stories/2011/march/cryptanalysis_032911/cryptanalysis_032911">original write-up</a>. I felt that maybe I could crack the code but that the chances would be much better if a very large group of people worked together to solve it. Therefore I chose to start a wiki as a tool for collaborative work by anyone and everyone. It is my hope that this will allow us to help the FBI solve this decade old mystery.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.fbi.gov/news/stories/2011/march/cryptanalysis_032911/image/gallery/encyphered-note/image_large" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.fbi.gov/news/stories/2011/march/cryptanalysis_032911/image/gallery/encyphered-note/image_large" width="246" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.fbi.gov/news/stories/2011/march/cryptanalysis_032911/image/gallery/help-us-solve-this-encyphered-note/image_large" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.fbi.gov/news/stories/2011/march/cryptanalysis_032911/image/gallery/help-us-solve-this-encyphered-note/image_large" width="247" /></a></div><br />
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This <a href="http://mccormick-code.wikidot.com/">wiki site</a> was started to have a central location to discuss and work on decoding the McCormick Code. I have setup a <a href="http://mccormick-code.wikidot.com/forum:start">Forum</a> and a <a href="http://mccormick-code.wikidot.com/theories">Theories</a> page to start. I would like to see a page setup for any theory that is come up with. From there it will evolve and grow.<br />
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If you think you can help or are just curious please <a href="http://mccormick-code.wikidot.com/">visit</a>, sign up, and help crack the code. If you have information and want to contact the FBI directly they have a dedicated <a href="http://forms.fbi.gov/code">tip line</a>.<br />
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I know that this is a little off topic for a RepRap blog but I think the RepRap community could be a good resource to tap in solving this mystery.Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-79322495149548310212011-04-03T19:37:00.000-07:002011-04-03T19:37:58.396-07:00A Clonedel transplantIt seems that a year of printing parts, 16 <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/collections/72157626423565520/"><span id="goog_1219446763"></span>offspring</a> <span id="goog_1219446764"></span>plus many other items, has had its toll on Willow.<br />
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I also noticed that the filament has not been feeding well resulting in very poor prints. Looking for the culprit led me to my idler. The original was <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5587563668/in/photostream/">cracked</a> and when I was talking to Matt at <a href="http://metrixcreatespace.com/">Metrix Create: Space</a> he suggested I replace it with a <span id="goog_1219446750"></span><a href="http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/2011/02/prusa-mendel-and-the-clonedels/">Clonedel</a> <span id="goog_1219446751"></span>idler.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5587564448/" title="Clonedel idler installed by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Clonedel idler installed" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5228/5587564448_a787375217.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
There are more pictures of the transplant and the original idler <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/sets/72157624242649402/">here</a>.<br />
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After breaking a <a href="http://reprapbreeding.blogspot.com/2010/12/willow-gets-some-dental-work.html">tooth</a> off my x pulley at the end of the year I broke another tooth off a few days ago. The broken tooth is actually the same one as before but on the other end.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5586990799/" title="Old x pulley by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Old x pulley" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5296/5586990799_a2e146a180.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />
This time I replaced it with a new one that was printed for me by <a href="http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/">Open3DP</a>.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5586991933/" title="New x pulley by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="New x pulley" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5175/5586991933_6e68e4d839.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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And finally I just noticed that my z end stop spring is cracked as well.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5586972033/" title="Cracked opto-spring by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Cracked opto-spring" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5014/5586972033_c533b08d0f.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
I am not sure how I want to fix that yet. But will probably go with a Prusa style clamp on the guide rod.Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-13477617024136588292011-03-28T20:05:00.000-07:002011-03-28T20:05:32.821-07:00An Assembled OffspringI have not had reports back about most of the part sets that I have made, however here is a set, <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/sets/72157625584407253/">Prusa #4</a>, that has been assembled and is already printing <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7375">upgrades</a> and <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7117">things</a>.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z0mgFsLToYs/TZFKGQwHfBI/AAAAAAAAA0c/z00_Ly3hCLs/s1600/2011-03-27+02.46.28+Gary+Helriegel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z0mgFsLToYs/TZFKGQwHfBI/AAAAAAAAA0c/z00_Ly3hCLs/s320/2011-03-27+02.46.28+Gary+Helriegel.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Gary J. Helriegel © 2011</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Gary, thank you for sharing your picture and I look forward to seeing more prints in the future.Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-42702316288177574532011-03-15T00:01:00.000-07:002011-03-15T00:01:49.597-07:00A new species is born!We would like to share something we made:<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><b>Patrick Hannan</b>, <b>Jared Knutzen</b>,<b> Nicholas C Lewis</b>, <b>Joy Markham </b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><object height="344" width="425"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Li1yihOgREA?hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Li1yihOgREA?hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>AdderFab</b><br />
<b>ME495</b> - <b>University of Washington</b><br />
<b>March 9, 2011</b><br />
<b>Open3DP</b><b> </b></div><br />
Stay tuned for more details...Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-42792127513048782512011-03-07T21:29:00.000-08:002011-03-07T22:24:25.264-08:00Light Bar Assembly InstructionsI am getting ready to sell a few of my new <a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150574081948">RepRap light bar kits</a> and am providing assembly instructions here:<br />
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First verify you have all the parts:<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5507882523/" title="Kit parts by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Kit parts" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5256/5507882523_33bffbffb1.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<b>The Red LEDs have a different resistor value than the rest. Ensure that this resistor stays with the Red LEDs.</b><br />
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Take the Red LEDs and resistor and bend the resistor leads to fit the holes on the PCB. The Red LEDs go in the spots marked "1" with the long LED leads going to the square shaped pads. The resistor goes in the spot marked "R1." <br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5508481570/" title="Red LEDs (1) by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Red LEDs (1)" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5217/5508481570_874c87aabc.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5508481698/" title="Red LEDs (1) by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Red LEDs (1)" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5060/5508481698_4d68fac110.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
Solder them in place: <br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5508481792/" title="Red LEDs (1) using helping hands by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Red LEDs (1) using helping hands" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5251/5508481792_0f1373a31d.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />
<br />
Repeat this for the remaining LEDs taking care to do them one color at a time to avoid mixing up the LEDs. <i>They each have a number on the label that matches a number on the PCB.</i><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5508481908/" title="Blue LEDs (2) by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Blue LEDs (2)" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5178/5508481908_2ae347b790.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5507883143/" title="Blue LEDs (2) by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Blue LEDs (2)" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5295/5507883143_a669d2ab7f.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5507883315/" title="Green LEDs (3) by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Green LEDs (3)" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5055/5507883315_9f3795be9a.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5508482306/" title="Green LEDs (3) by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Green LEDs (3)" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5140/5508482306_5080a20c19.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5508482400/" title="UV LEDs (4) by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="UV LEDs (4)" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5017/5508482400_1c5657d630.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
On the opposite side of the board place the 5 pin right angle header<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5508482492/" title="Assembled by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Assembled" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5172/5508482492_5e73476b9e.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5508482622/" title="Assembled by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Assembled" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5213/5508482622_c0cb68fd14.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
Then using the edge of a table or other flat object gently bend all the LEDs down to a 30-45° angle (The exact angle will depend on your carriage and hot end, so bend them to optimize the light on your print area.)<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5508518826/" title="Bending LEDs to angle by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Bending LEDs to angle" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5254/5508518826_9e85153387.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5508518940/" title="LEDs bent to angle by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="LEDs bent to angle" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5298/5508518940_972860775c.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
Mount it to your carriage connect the "G" pin to ground and the "1"-"4" pins to switched 12V (1 is Red, etc...).<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5507920219/" title="On stock Mendel carriage by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="On stock Mendel carriage" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5134/5507920219_fa3b5e1aff.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5507920021/" title="On stock Prusa carriage by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="On stock Prusa carriage" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5220/5507920021_a85d6471ea.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5508519026/" title="On Rhys Jones carriage by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="On Rhys Jones carriage" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5173/5508519026_9fe37483fa.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5508520362/" title="Red, Blue, & Green LEDs by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Red, Blue, & Green LEDs" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5091/5508520362_25b605b0a7.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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More pictures <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/sets/72157626220979118/with/5507920021/">here</a>Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-31611514590427318752011-02-27T21:50:00.000-08:002011-02-27T21:50:44.603-08:00Electronics setbacks, an 11th Prusa, & an OpenSCAD Workshop<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ej4zp4MTW_k/TWs2oerXgII/AAAAAAAAAzw/P6At0wjTm44/s1600/DSCN5869.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ej4zp4MTW_k/TWs2oerXgII/AAAAAAAAAzw/P6At0wjTm44/s320/DSCN5869.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
It has been a while since my last post. I have been rather busy this quarter with my senior capstone project (Stay tuned for more on that later...) <br />
<br />
I recently had a minor setback with my printer when something happened to my motherboard. I am not sure exactly what occurred but it became unresponsive and I could not re-flash it. I was not sure what to do except either replace the board or at least the Atmega644p. I was saved by Mark Ganter at <a href="http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/">Open3DP </a>who had some spare Gen3 boards that needed TLC. I was able to find one that was in better shape than mine and get printing again. I still bought a new Atmega644p chip and plan to try repairing my original board. As much for the learning experience as anything else (I also hate to throw away something that could be fixed.)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqs2tRt57eriou_XdFXWUxQK4tVNBvACO5MQ5BC2_5zA0LaYog9DR8frmE6lKIuw-tpKs60oWETWdhUprVQQdZgr_HlaaAnkK-CphojJfbgUJ8s_NPncb94JmqNIRgozn4usPWYV_uPRDJ/s1600/DSCN5820.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqs2tRt57eriou_XdFXWUxQK4tVNBvACO5MQ5BC2_5zA0LaYog9DR8frmE6lKIuw-tpKs60oWETWdhUprVQQdZgr_HlaaAnkK-CphojJfbgUJ8s_NPncb94JmqNIRgozn4usPWYV_uPRDJ/s320/DSCN5820.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>The picture is not too exciting as it is just a working motherboard.. <br />
I have now printed another <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/sets/72157626160880192/">complete Prusa</a> (available on <a href="http://www.emakershop.com/browse.php?listing=34">eMAKERshop</a>) using the replacement board (the first picture is of this set).<br />
<br />
I am teaching an <a href="http://metrixcreatespace.com/post/3098522198/makeshops-galore">OpenSCAD workshop</a> at Metrix Create: Space on <strong style="font-weight: normal;">Sunday, March 27 from 2-4pm.</strong>Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-44124199496699333872011-01-29T23:35:00.000-08:002011-01-29T23:35:54.839-08:00A Ceramic Tile Print Bed - Part 2I finally made time to pull off the old bed and drill the holes in the new tile. I always hate to mess with the printer unless it is broken, but I had waited long enough to find out how well the tile would work.<br />
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I had read some things about mounting the bed on only three points instead of four and thought that made sense. So I designed & printed a <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5912">mount</a> to attach to the froglet on the 180° side.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vjNiyVVyvvk/TUUPGbTbYCI/AAAAAAAAAy4/1mKkOsLGuHc/s1600/DSCN5527.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vjNiyVVyvvk/TUUPGbTbYCI/AAAAAAAAAy4/1mKkOsLGuHc/s320/DSCN5527.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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I then removed the bed and springs.<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5400424374/" title="Old screws, springs, & bed by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Old screws, springs, & bed" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5011/5400424374_61490d6e3c.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
I decided that I could gain some height by cutting off the screws on the y carriage.<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5400424020/" title="Cutting off screws by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Cutting off screws" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5057/5400424020_e9537d91b0.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
After blocking all the electronics I cut one screw off. I then decided that the amount of metal debris created was risky and removed the carriage to cut the remaining screws.<br />
After cutting the screws off I drilled holes to mount the new support.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5399824897/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="Clamped to drill first hole by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Clamped to drill first hole" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5173/5399824897_97050b16c9.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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I then marked the first two hole on the tile and drilled them (under water).<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5399826557/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="The first two hole locations by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="The first two hole locations" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5214/5399826557_f3c26c1cd7.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5399826713/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="The wet drilling setup by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="The wet drilling setup" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5136/5399826713_ec8a247d99.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
I then used the first two holes to locate the third<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5400426178/" title="Setting the screws in the first holes by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Setting the screws in the first holes" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5095/5400426178_6c96401311.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5400426276/" title="Marking the last hole by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Marking the last hole" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5055/5400426276_c9569578d5.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
This last hole had a small amount of chip out on the top surface since I drilled it from the back. Most of this was removed when I drilled the countersink.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5400426438/" title="Chip out by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Chip out" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5135/5400426438_fd7497e92b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
I then temporarily mounted the tile so I could mark and then drill the purge hole (at 0,0)<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5399826061/" title="Purge hole by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Purge hole" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5211/5399826061_90dfb1cec4.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Finally, with the assistance of some tape, I mounted the bed using new springs.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5400425430/" title="Tape to help hold the springs on by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Tape to help hold the springs on" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5294/5400425430_3ec6ac5fa6.jpg" width="400" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5399826321/" title="Tape to help hold the springs on by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Tape to help hold the springs on" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5296/5399826321_e969679592.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
I gained almost 12mm of height:<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5400425154/" title="Gained 12mm by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Gained 12mm" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5254/5400425154_17be830074.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
I am printing on it right now and it is working beautifully and is overall a very good success.<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5400425682/" title="My new tile bed by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="My new tile bed" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5140/5400425682_ae0f91d682.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
My only concerns are that the springs I am using are not quite as stiff as think I would like and I added some weight (about 13oz from where I was).<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5399825383/" title="Original wood/wood bed (18.45oz) by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Original wood/wood bed (18.45oz)" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5017/5399825383_81e04e9dd9.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5399825553/" title="Wood bed with 6x6 tile (21.50oz) by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Wood bed with 6x6 tile (21.50oz)" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5217/5399825553_ddca3a2bec.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5400424666/" title="New 9.5x9.5 tile (34.90oz) by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="New 9.5x9.5 tile (34.90oz)" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5053/5400424666_7381c3ae1f.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-88240943897422352082011-01-22T21:16:00.000-08:002011-01-22T21:16:18.931-08:00New light bar PCBsAfter making my <a href="http://reprapbreeding.blogspot.com/2010/12/willow-gets-new-light.html">last light bar</a> I had a few people ask me about buying one. So I fixed the issues I had with my first iteration of the PCB and had 3 more made using DorkbotPDX's <a href="http://dorkbotpdx.org/wiki/pcb_order">PCB service</a>. These boards are much nicer than the one from BatchPCB and they came faster as well (it is also cheaper if you need 3 of each board).<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5379464731/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="RepRap X-carriage light PCBs by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="RepRap X-carriage light PCBs" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5008/5379464731_a9e0b63acd.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It should now fit on a standard Mendel carriage, Rhys-Jones <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3594">multi-material carriage</a>, and a Prusa carriage. </div><br />
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I love the purple solder mask and the silkscreen detail it very nice. I plan to assemble one of them to check that the changes I made to the PCB work as expected. After that I will have a production run made and have kits available to purchase. Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-36436521551320093462011-01-12T19:18:00.000-08:002011-01-12T19:18:47.679-08:00A Ceramic Tile Print BedI was using a piece of polycarbonate that was to thin and was allowing parts to warp by lifting the PC sheet slightly. When thinking about stable, flat surfaces I realized ceramic tile could be a nice surface. So I went to my local home improvement store and bought a 6"x6" tile and tried it both plain and with blue tape on it. PLA did not stick to it alone but with the tape it works very well. It is very flat and stable, with the only downside I can see being that it is a little on the heavy side.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5350465411/" title="Test tile mounted on Willow by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Test tile mounted on Willow" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5206/5350465411_2119f38af1.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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After proving to myself that it would work I thought about options for mounting a larger tile and tested drilling and countersinking holes in a scrap piece of tile I had.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5351065160/" title="Countersunk screw test hole by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Countersunk screw test hole" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5084/5351065160_b30fa05ba3.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5351065346/" title="Countersunk screw test by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Countersunk screw test" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5046/5351065346_632fc7f7cc.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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This also looks like it will work very nicely. My next step was to get a larger tile. The only problem here is that the Mendel print bed is not a standard tile size. However my local home improvement store will cut tile you buy there for free, at least small quantities, so I had them cut a 12" tile down to 9.5"x9.5" (which is a little bigger than the stock bed).<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5351064588/" title="The 12"x12" tile cut down to 9.5"x9.5" by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="The 12"x12" tile cut down to 9.5"x9.5"" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5205/5351064588_a781efcc1b.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<br />
My next step is to drill the mounting holes, remove the wooden bed and mount my new tile bed. I am also thinking about adjusting the spring mount configuration to get a little more Z room and make the bed easily removable.<br />
<br />
I may also do some testing with heating the tile as I think it would heat nicely as well.Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-18829340714043679632010-12-31T11:35:00.000-08:002010-12-31T11:35:41.575-08:00Willow Gets Some Dental WorkI started noticing that my round holes were not quite round, so I checked my belts and determined that the X belt was a little looser than I would like. I tightened it and started printing again only to discover a horrible noise and the x motor binding and skipping. It happened at a few points across the bed but ran fine between them. I looked around for the problem, what did I mess up by tightening the belt?<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5310391708/in/set-72157624242649402/"><span id="goog_2094602775"></span><img alt="Broken Tooth" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5047/5310391708_19d83296f9.jpg" width="400" /><span id="goog_2094602776"></span></a></div><br />
It turns out all I did was make an existing problem worse. The x-axis pulley had lost a tooth. For the looks of the hole where it use to be it had been gone for awhile. (Also note the wear on the teeth from the belt...)<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5309802831/" title="Broken Tooth by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Broken Tooth" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5286/5309802831_47ec918e2f.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Which explains some other strange x-axis noise I could not place. Lesson learned "Listen to your bot!" if there is a strange noise look around more and look under things.<br />
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The easiest way to fix this, and keep my nice pulley, was to remove the pulley, flip it over, and put it back on. Easier said than done...<br />
<br />
Once I started looking at it closer I realized why the tooth broke.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5309803639/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="Hollow tooth by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Hollow tooth" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5004/5309803639_31ea1b555a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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Four of the teeth are completely hollow. I am not sure what infill settings we used when printing the gears. But the 4 that are are 45° from the infill direction have none in them.<br />
I then became concerned about my other pulleys. I checked and they all have the hollow teeth but Z and Y both have all of them still. But I will have to keep an eye on them.<br />
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How to reinforce the pulley so that it won't break again?<br />
It turns out the holes were big enough that some of my waste PLA (0.5mm) would slip down into them.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5310392842/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="0.5mm waste PLA (for filling the void) by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="0.5mm waste PLA (for filling the void)" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5245/5310392842_955d9f8685.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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So I cut 4 pieces, mixed up some epoxy and glued them in.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5309804339/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="Pulley with voids filled by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Pulley with voids filled" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5161/5309804339_1cd280fbfa.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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Here you can see the reinforcement PLA inside the teeth.<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5309804475/" title="Pulley with voids filled by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Pulley with voids filled" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5287/5309804475_dcf80cb8c7.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
I then pressed the pulley back on with a bar clamp.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5310393962/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="Pressing pulley onto motor by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Pressing pulley onto motor" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5004/5310393962_a338b09fbe.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5310394152/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="Fixed motor by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Fixed motor" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5247/5310394152_30d656c387.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<br />
I then reinstalled it on Willow and re-tightened the belt.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5310394284/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="Fixed motor by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Fixed motor" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5250/5310394284_bf064d3a06.jpg" width="375" /></a></div><br />
<br />
Back in business and printing again. The x-axis is quieter now, which brings my back to <b>"Listen to your bot!"</b> if there is a strange noise look around and <b>look under things</b>.<br />
<br />
A final thing to note is even professionally printed pulleys will eventually wear out.Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-88454063544912329312010-12-23T20:44:00.000-08:002010-12-23T20:44:44.238-08:00Willow gets a new lightI had a light I made using perf board that fit on the old x carriage.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgar55bNQbgn2WlnTYtpITF-XOn1GnqepoxQDpu_gT7R6jyEeS_7N598gZ5PfltHdQ_JT6u_NtU9PE_V58yZl1yIQgUo4pEBxRwu9UH7R3o-gwA8rkDZKgrH-ZUTRfPrERAY3Pt7Q9pjNiB/s1600/DSCN2549.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgar55bNQbgn2WlnTYtpITF-XOn1GnqepoxQDpu_gT7R6jyEeS_7N598gZ5PfltHdQ_JT6u_NtU9PE_V58yZl1yIQgUo4pEBxRwu9UH7R3o-gwA8rkDZKgrH-ZUTRfPrERAY3Pt7Q9pjNiB/s320/DSCN2549.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Unfortunately it would not fit on my new x carriage, so I designed a board with <a href="http://www.lis.inpg.fr/realise_au_lis/kicad/">KiCad </a>and had it made using <a href="http://batchpcb.com/index.php/Products">BatchPCB</a>.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3QzbPX79IADuDDp1vYyH6XXV_w3CDhaAU-nZprByse19mEJLEdGEbLhznymZratTcvxt9oZVof1Szp3RrJ5oz-M38qzpNBv3YKGp9op2DnsJkHBesbFXtZrx6yxNAk8-ErLsOhqFosRH6/s1600/DSCN4725.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3QzbPX79IADuDDp1vYyH6XXV_w3CDhaAU-nZprByse19mEJLEdGEbLhznymZratTcvxt9oZVof1Szp3RrJ5oz-M38qzpNBv3YKGp9op2DnsJkHBesbFXtZrx6yxNAk8-ErLsOhqFosRH6/s320/DSCN4725.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The idea being to have 4 different sets of 3 LEDs. I chose White, Orange, Green, and UV.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZzn5Jg3EmsYnYf4UmyCQToFJ4wGcL9lz5_kdp4b-1tshn8v21whk_Fb4N0Uy2N0iEkiW4Wsg2IRHkUsP_rV_oxsJ8F8whPKdwZB0rW6gwWOZGV6H0pLZ8n13cHSqI9hAQtKE0msOJ-Kwf/s1600/AllColors.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZzn5Jg3EmsYnYf4UmyCQToFJ4wGcL9lz5_kdp4b-1tshn8v21whk_Fb4N0Uy2N0iEkiW4Wsg2IRHkUsP_rV_oxsJ8F8whPKdwZB0rW6gwWOZGV6H0pLZ8n13cHSqI9hAQtKE0msOJ-Kwf/s400/AllColors.JPG" width="238" /></a></div><br />
The UV is very cool with the <a href="http://reprapbreeding.blogspot.com/2010/10/black-light-pla-call-out-for-pictures.html">Ultimachine Blue PLA</a>.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgstYczNNwn5hl2p4CWv92xQacbFPCKqsnY7JxFohSUymwW8AjAAwoPRrDj9-1hzX9gWkrHKQaFzDKPDGDgi2wjUMYVQoUiNr3HrrnPlcd41m7Ewm1CaXwMc4bCHTXgewKagCPDI5Z0cFte/s1600/DSCN4827.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgstYczNNwn5hl2p4CWv92xQacbFPCKqsnY7JxFohSUymwW8AjAAwoPRrDj9-1hzX9gWkrHKQaFzDKPDGDgi2wjUMYVQoUiNr3HrrnPlcd41m7Ewm1CaXwMc4bCHTXgewKagCPDI5Z0cFte/s320/DSCN4827.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I originally designed it to have the LEDs wired in parallel but after getting the boards I realized that was a bad way to drive the LEDs so I changed the board by breaking a few traces and adding a few jumpers.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjado1iQVN04G-hBYdaQlFkUDdt7eMHGVdZXG4k4KnZYxO60GQBF7A13U9AgiDxFJ5-0lwibenXdVWRfHlwQOViNU-vDdfNIlv6Y-TxUyUxG0GUzjfqwxNhYYnXIuOAiLVBA00dH67fgHRs/s1600/DSCN4812.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjado1iQVN04G-hBYdaQlFkUDdt7eMHGVdZXG4k4KnZYxO60GQBF7A13U9AgiDxFJ5-0lwibenXdVWRfHlwQOViNU-vDdfNIlv6Y-TxUyUxG0GUzjfqwxNhYYnXIuOAiLVBA00dH67fgHRs/s320/DSCN4812.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div>Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-34218812413872950482010-12-18T12:36:00.000-08:002010-12-18T12:36:50.888-08:00A Holiday Prusa MendelI found <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5002">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5002</a> and the novelty of this holiday remix of the Prusa Mendel was enough for me to try printing one. <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/kliment">Kliment</a> is making a holiday themed build plate for each day starting on December 2nd and ending on the 24th. You can print one plate each day and will have a Prusa by Christmas.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5272136002/" title="All parts through day 18 by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="All parts through day 18" height="180" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5090/5272136002_a4dd2f38c0.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
I have pictures of all the parts I have so far <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/sets/72157625499669963/">here</a>.<br />
<br />
I like the simplicity of the Prusa but am taking a slightly different approach to RepRap simplification with my <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Integrated_Parametric_RepRap">Integrated Parametric RepRap</a> (more on that soon).Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-88470971082808481272010-12-05T21:15:00.000-08:002010-12-05T21:15:47.515-08:00More Plastic, a Fourth offspring, and an update to IPR<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I used the money I made selling my first three Mendels to buy more PLA from <a href="http://ultimachine.com/">Ultimachine</a>. I bought 2 rolls each of Green, Blue, White, Silver, and Black. Someone that I met at <a href="http://metrixcreatespace.com/">Metrix: Create Space</a> is buying one roll of the Green from me.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJTCMOOjZgDKQtFNyDmptTOf_gqvt8gKaFqJTkIwMkFcFSnqxGmPGfRkGyPNkJpLQwt5bHHrDgMzKKDfkuxN3q2i4mUBND2-jr0AZgOWH7O_d0EBrwUZDn_leng3Ymv66dGbfNitm8f9C0/s1600/DSCN4511.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJTCMOOjZgDKQtFNyDmptTOf_gqvt8gKaFqJTkIwMkFcFSnqxGmPGfRkGyPNkJpLQwt5bHHrDgMzKKDfkuxN3q2i4mUBND2-jr0AZgOWH7O_d0EBrwUZDn_leng3Ymv66dGbfNitm8f9C0/s320/DSCN4511.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmwBxjsN8t72teoL9TaywSfEEi19JVY1OADY8ioVAOn0tfcFxrtQAWi1rVHI7acXeOSbWZMsZSPEScVkF8iYbQOP2ZXjQCsr8aUW65rxDQcHiq3ragO1v2TZjkXiWiCmNVKyVszdMqzyFT/s1600/DSCN4514.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmwBxjsN8t72teoL9TaywSfEEi19JVY1OADY8ioVAOn0tfcFxrtQAWi1rVHI7acXeOSbWZMsZSPEScVkF8iYbQOP2ZXjQCsr8aUW65rxDQcHiq3ragO1v2TZjkXiWiCmNVKyVszdMqzyFT/s320/DSCN4514.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh5Ggpu3Wa1jD-mDx1lMjuWSlw9uVqdPpBOaViBObq32tpOqp36Zf8TRe0yfya0lGkpcpwPJxYTOrycwS4tuuB8_KyOcxpGjuu0MnbGq1HMv5_pfmFK4ODHKs_es5oL_ZyPMIhqn5txE3t/s1600/DSCN4513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh5Ggpu3Wa1jD-mDx1lMjuWSlw9uVqdPpBOaViBObq32tpOqp36Zf8TRe0yfya0lGkpcpwPJxYTOrycwS4tuuB8_KyOcxpGjuu0MnbGq1HMv5_pfmFK4ODHKs_es5oL_ZyPMIhqn5txE3t/s320/DSCN4513.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vjNiyVVyvvk/TPxur7pjLnI/AAAAAAAAAw8/WYchUpuyPIg/s1600/DSCN4512.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vjNiyVVyvvk/TPxur7pjLnI/AAAAAAAAAw8/WYchUpuyPIg/s320/DSCN4512.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Willow is happily restocked with plastic and the Green was used to finish a fourth Mendel set that will be listed on <a href="http://myworld.ebay.com/nplayshorn">eBay</a> in the morning.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWIdC1TmobdkTW6p1aoj66AxVVBYGTALqFj3a1_LYdVSm1U5m5e-FkElCNbvoTZaI4bSH-sPiizAcFVDxD4lozUS-ksfq-jCAkfAlYbAD7a6DJ44CUUgSAT0dfboklHwUFUtguHJVlTump/s1600/DSCN4518.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWIdC1TmobdkTW6p1aoj66AxVVBYGTALqFj3a1_LYdVSm1U5m5e-FkElCNbvoTZaI4bSH-sPiizAcFVDxD4lozUS-ksfq-jCAkfAlYbAD7a6DJ44CUUgSAT0dfboklHwUFUtguHJVlTump/s320/DSCN4518.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5237165238/" title="Certificate by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="Certificate" height="375" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5082/5237165238_ec153aee46.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
I also made some progress on my <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Integrated_Parametric_RepRap">Integrated Parametric RepRap</a> work and posted a new version of the OpenSCAD files on <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5048">Thingiverse</a>.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiQpPDC1nWShzA6EM2jHWFOvP4m3hjzFIgI4buRqhJTxGEMYbTYw9J-RNOXVw0iO67EGWyd34xJLeF-kP2vG8n_gqn07p25FuqldEXSTc4LagAtYhH2XjiigQDbSuTrwKGuGDXTuB3vuBG/s1600/Pre2_a.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiQpPDC1nWShzA6EM2jHWFOvP4m3hjzFIgI4buRqhJTxGEMYbTYw9J-RNOXVw0iO67EGWyd34xJLeF-kP2vG8n_gqn07p25FuqldEXSTc4LagAtYhH2XjiigQDbSuTrwKGuGDXTuB3vuBG/s320/Pre2_a.png" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div>Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-11129067882946965242010-11-28T20:25:00.000-08:002010-11-28T20:25:59.650-08:00First pre-release of Integrated Parametric RepRapI just uploaded the first pre-release of my<span style="font-size: small;"> Integrated Parametric RepRap</span><span style="font-size: small;"> OpenSCAD</span><span style="font-size: small;"> files. </span><span style="font-size: small;">Currently it does not make anything printable but what it does do is "build" a parametric frame based on the settings in the DNA file.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">The core files contain the following:<br />
<b>IPR_DNA:</b></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> All constants and calculations, the constants define all the possible things that make a specific robot unique. (ranging from desired build space to fastener and bearing sizes)<br />
<b>IPR_func:</b></span> <span style="font-size: small;"> All "standard" modules, such as motor mounts, bearing mounts, hardware models, etc... currently this file "builds" the main frame out of the hardware specified in the <b>IPR_DNA</b> file.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span> <br />
<a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Integrated_Parametric_RepRap" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"></a> <br />
<a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Integrated_Parametric_RepRap" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"></a> <br />
The following pictures show the frame with a 100x100, 150x150, & 200x200 build space with normal Mendel sized hardware (including a NEMA17 Z motor on the left). <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Integrated_Parametric_RepRap" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"></a> <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU1rXsn-e-fsiHqu8BTbWLPtSXDLakovSWpBpvwXqcom1rhyWBOytfZqP0_zWFmtVfHBC6ku_UY5IBCDpiSu5NvvsAF2FQhPyN1zJqLI1OZSE21eW985SGVcYvcCne5KW_6par2I90JxE8/s1600/100x100.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU1rXsn-e-fsiHqu8BTbWLPtSXDLakovSWpBpvwXqcom1rhyWBOytfZqP0_zWFmtVfHBC6ku_UY5IBCDpiSu5NvvsAF2FQhPyN1zJqLI1OZSE21eW985SGVcYvcCne5KW_6par2I90JxE8/s320/100x100.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">100x100</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcjAdzikh5_8cXKy6fjnjMoq0VBLjUbXWwOGXoCUIqLPR3oEL50f1tbNQ0UshrOMc7E7VdAsHsl6f7mBg_8RQyUhmQRdhnUpMvrLg5ddUlcW5OWTRdu3fHcRl9ok5zFg37AFa3rsLMku4P/s1600/150x150.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcjAdzikh5_8cXKy6fjnjMoq0VBLjUbXWwOGXoCUIqLPR3oEL50f1tbNQ0UshrOMc7E7VdAsHsl6f7mBg_8RQyUhmQRdhnUpMvrLg5ddUlcW5OWTRdu3fHcRl9ok5zFg37AFa3rsLMku4P/s320/150x150.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">150x150</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlNIuoN46c40GCUg5hJpe5f0G2VKvGSrLvczAEXZPZIwCYzVFVLVGMXuobP4Ef0h_cs10pb9HbzYwGueea7mjjaZ9PWkgWGdiJghglmZBIoO5s9U1Svdm9ftVCBxcFZexOSEdpaWA9KBN0/s1600/200x200.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlNIuoN46c40GCUg5hJpe5f0G2VKvGSrLvczAEXZPZIwCYzVFVLVGMXuobP4Ef0h_cs10pb9HbzYwGueea7mjjaZ9PWkgWGdiJghglmZBIoO5s9U1Svdm9ftVCBxcFZexOSEdpaWA9KBN0/s320/200x200.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">200x200</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>This picture shows a 300x300 build space with larger hardware (608 guide bearings and 12mm rod).<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbsclmhi7j6Ovz7NRhLrtgXnQA-G4vCaQfpazjIv1ZXlhoX0eAyi5geXrU9tn0vvEFzEkuyAopqDW_WRbMlWNqUFmKyTlppWuL7mYaXT-hzqwBn_4f2-3VDBTWvArGjI466NXbk2q64ypW/s1600/300x300.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbsclmhi7j6Ovz7NRhLrtgXnQA-G4vCaQfpazjIv1ZXlhoX0eAyi5geXrU9tn0vvEFzEkuyAopqDW_WRbMlWNqUFmKyTlppWuL7mYaXT-hzqwBn_4f2-3VDBTWvArGjI466NXbk2q64ypW/s320/300x300.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">300x300</td></tr>
</tbody></table>This should give you an idea of the flexibility I am building into this design. <br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">I plan to keep ALL constants and calculated values in the DNA file and everything else in a few files that call the DNA and func files.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Here are my current rules:</span><br />
<ol><li><span style="font-size: small;">If it is a constant it lives in the DNA file.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">If it is a calculation that effects parts (not positional calculations but dimensional ones) it lives in the DNA file.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">If it is a module that anything else needs to call it lives in the func file.</span></li>
</ol><span style="font-size: small;">The goal is to eliminate redundancy and simplify the whole process of generating a robots files.</span><span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span><br />
For more information visit the main documentation at:<br />
<a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Integrated_Parametric_RepRap" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">reprap.org/wiki/Integrated_Parametric_RepRap</a>Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-32543117176324495062010-11-24T22:11:00.000-08:002010-11-24T22:11:53.061-08:00More Hollow PrintsAfter last week I am, at least temporarily, hooked on hollow prints. So I downloaded <a href="http://www.makehuman.org/">MakeHuman</a> and did some experiments with making my own human forms. I then printed a male and a female.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5205532077/" title="MakeHuman female test 2 by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="MakeHuman female test 2" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5162/5205532077_78fac801ec_m.jpg" width="180" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5206133330/" title="MakeHuman male test 2 by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="MakeHuman male test 2" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5046/5206133330_3b4381c550_m.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><br />
After examining them I determined it would work better if I printed them upside-down. So I re-trimmed the files and printed them again with very nice results (the above pictures are of the upside-down prints). I have uploaded these to Thingiverse (<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4896">male</a> and <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4895">female</a>) and hope others are inspired to create more human forms to print.<br />
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I also printed a large hollow version of a 3D scan of my face.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5205533629/" title="My face scanned and printed by Nicholas C Lewis, on Flickr"><img alt="My face scanned and printed" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5004/5205533629_ea24c93af6.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><br />
Be sure to check out more pictures on <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/sets/72157625464151868/with/5205532077/">Flicker</a>.Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-35858487386098383852010-11-20T21:41:00.000-08:002010-11-20T21:41:06.599-08:00My Attempt at a Hollow Woman PrintAfter seeing a <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/erikdebruijn1/UltimakerProtobox#5540615062064873474">picture </a>from Erik de Bruijn of the <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1216">pink panther woman</a> printed on an <a href="http://www.ultimaker.com/">UltiMaker </a>with no infill I thought I would try that and see how it turned out. Here it is:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ6yyx5O6_Fw3S5iUKR5_W0P6gVu9x9U3u7eLu7C-nEaFn3sGNDBMKWNIOqmjX4Ajphx90mEeIOk6rGxA169pfBnlLno0JptSPhmrJp1h5QlaTjD6-sXCG_5jQuQaDFKp7hbmnNoplWrV_/s1600/DSCN4306.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ6yyx5O6_Fw3S5iUKR5_W0P6gVu9x9U3u7eLu7C-nEaFn3sGNDBMKWNIOqmjX4Ajphx90mEeIOk6rGxA169pfBnlLno0JptSPhmrJp1h5QlaTjD6-sXCG_5jQuQaDFKp7hbmnNoplWrV_/s320/DSCN4306.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vjNiyVVyvvk/TOivoEEtFaI/AAAAAAAAAv0/Pf5FIks386Q/s1600/DSCN4314.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vjNiyVVyvvk/TOivoEEtFaI/AAAAAAAAAv0/Pf5FIks386Q/s320/DSCN4314.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWd3xuCvlPPm5W7mzP0dQf9HpWaiw8hAf1gAyCu5cT4rZEoIxGKybzI5KvoWrqbwz1k7cR0D7lRsKtYZ7BNfkQ8AsuupbluaEjHDKC-5QaYQY35aJL82wIWfK6dLSbc95AAEXuKskCyvZC/s1600/DSCN4318.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWd3xuCvlPPm5W7mzP0dQf9HpWaiw8hAf1gAyCu5cT4rZEoIxGKybzI5KvoWrqbwz1k7cR0D7lRsKtYZ7BNfkQ8AsuupbluaEjHDKC-5QaYQY35aJL82wIWfK6dLSbc95AAEXuKskCyvZC/s320/DSCN4318.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>Mine is not as smooth as Erik's as it has pause points that leave little blobs... It is still a very cool print.Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-54793698999545135532010-11-14T13:17:00.000-08:002010-11-14T13:17:46.921-08:003rd Mendel Set for Sale & More About MoustachesWillow has recently completed it's third complete set of Mendel parts! This set was printed using mostly Blue Translucent, <a href="http://reprapbreeding.blogspot.com/2010/06/glowing-pla.html">UV Happy</a>, <a href="http://ultimachine.com/content/pla-blue-translucent-5lb">UltiMachine PLA</a>. I did run out of that PLA before finishing the extruder and a few of the y bar clamps, so the those are printed in the Natural PLA.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1392/5157947895_47718c522f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1392/5157947895_47718c522f.jpg" width="320" /> </a></div><br />
They are on eBay currently and close on <span class="vi-is1-dt"><span><span>Nov 18, 2010</span><span class="vi-is1-t"> at 5:56:54 PST</span></span></span>. I have cleaned them up some but have not reamed the holes. They come with a certificate of lineage (for anyone tracking that) suitable for framing. Check out the <a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150518910242">eBay listing</a> for more information. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I also have a collection of <a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/NicholasCLewis?section_id=7521316">items on etsy</a> that I am selling to help support Movember. During the month of November I am donating 100% of the sale price of all of these items to the Movember Foundation. Some of these items were 3D printed on Willow. If you want to see my slow growing moustache updates or donate money directly to Movember you should visit my <a href="http://us.movember.com/mospace/562836/">MoSpace Page</a>.</div>Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-2044346107788964832010-11-07T00:28:00.000-07:002010-11-07T00:28:58.748-07:00Movember MoustachesI took a small detour from Mendel reproduction to explore printing <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4648">Moustaches</a> (I am participating in <a href="http://us.movember.com/mospace/562836/">Movember</a>). I first<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4648"> made a design</a> that works very well for a larger Moustache but started to behave strangely in RepSnapper as I scaled it down. The slices would start getting too small and the part would have huge steps.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSTzgN9IEh9TUyI5nstVBJu0hu8CydVGWjMEldUl1dnh1GhysEd8rRutGCv9FtRn1iUzjeyjaihsedlRjNZ5hKIk9XxRYuOuOuovh7lWcdlbx5QNf3iztVnCzLlgnTQwprS3J4AQOHFlrv/s1600/DSCN3848.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSTzgN9IEh9TUyI5nstVBJu0hu8CydVGWjMEldUl1dnh1GhysEd8rRutGCv9FtRn1iUzjeyjaihsedlRjNZ5hKIk9XxRYuOuOuovh7lWcdlbx5QNf3iztVnCzLlgnTQwprS3J4AQOHFlrv/s320/DSCN3848.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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So I tweaked my design and made a <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4684">second version</a> that worked a little better (more rounded points and slightly better geometry). RepSnapper still had problems with strange layers with this version.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgdVu5G_8gy7DRI2mbNsKfoe2_tQEvXP9V1HilbScUILC1qU6-6IMJcK63u3KfdgGLamHVy3f3zT-_A_Sf_Oj-5irMqjrd15YBVHGCfAbu4KXC19ytZCIEhHhyphenhyphenNX7v9d8o3e56SqbnVPHL/s1600/DSCN3990+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="95" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgdVu5G_8gy7DRI2mbNsKfoe2_tQEvXP9V1HilbScUILC1qU6-6IMJcK63u3KfdgGLamHVy3f3zT-_A_Sf_Oj-5irMqjrd15YBVHGCfAbu4KXC19ytZCIEhHhyphenhyphenNX7v9d8o3e56SqbnVPHL/s320/DSCN3990+-+Copy.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
I ultimately made a <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4685">third version</a> with simpler geometry. This version worked very well for small Mo's (2nd-3rd image below) but RepSnapper did something even stranger on the versions with holes for a necklace cord or key chain (top two). <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHTuvULGeJMD3jjQQ3ki52KUyRYvoQzSYwDqsBejRIL4Rq90UPR1kGMqjOvy4F_CA7W_ShHbYI0D0Mg1lOqIYUzBmV3BmmXyYn1Gmd-AGobVOr-XzRBIPDo75Xss0AosFOCp7ktFGSBEhJ/s1600/DSCN3989.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHTuvULGeJMD3jjQQ3ki52KUyRYvoQzSYwDqsBejRIL4Rq90UPR1kGMqjOvy4F_CA7W_ShHbYI0D0Mg1lOqIYUzBmV3BmmXyYn1Gmd-AGobVOr-XzRBIPDo75Xss0AosFOCp7ktFGSBEhJ/s320/DSCN3989.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>The geometry is just chopped at the hole.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vjNiyVVyvvk/TNZOM06HAfI/AAAAAAAAAvA/0176R253cLw/s1600/DSCN3986.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vjNiyVVyvvk/TNZOM06HAfI/AAAAAAAAAvA/0176R253cLw/s320/DSCN3986.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>I took the STLs into MeshLab and did some smoothing and face re-simplification and was able to get something that did not have sharp corners and prints well in RepSnapper (even with the holes - see bottom two images above). It is probably time to start learning how to use something more robust than RepSnapper (like Skienforge...)Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8889519724947491885.post-7788956836557797122010-10-30T09:40:00.000-07:002010-10-30T09:40:02.433-07:00Second Set of Mendel Parts on eBayWillow has recently completed it's second complete set of Mendel parts! This set was printed using Blue Translucent, <a href="http://reprapbreeding.blogspot.com/2010/06/glowing-pla.html">UV Happy</a>, <a href="http://ultimachine.com/content/pla-blue-translucent-5lb">UltiMachine PLA</a>.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/5113069155/in/set-72157625236326366/"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1191/5113069155_5dcbb77721.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
They are on eBay currently at a $76.00 bid and close on <span class="vi-is1-dt"><span><span>Nov 01, 2010 </span><span class="vi-is1-t">at 08:06:10 PDT</span></span></span>. I have cleaned them up some but have not reamed the holes. They come with a certificate of lineage (for anyone tracking that) suitable for framing. Check out the <a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150511457409">eBay listing</a> for more information.Nicholas C. Lewishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.com1